TOP 10 BEST CAR AMPLIFIER FOR SOUND QUALITY

As you’re driving down the road, do you ever feel like your car speakers just don’t have the same quality as they used to? Is it difficult to hear what’s coming through your music because of all the background noise? If so, installing a car amplifier may be for you. A car amp will enhance the sound with an external speaker system and improve its overall clarity.

Every person who has ever been in a car knows that the sound quality of your vehicle’s speakers is not always as good as you want it to be. In order to improve your experience, some people have installed amplifiers that can make all the difference. This blog will show you how to find the best car amplifier for sound quality so that you can enjoy listening to music while on the go even more than before!

TOP 3 EXPERT’S CHOICES:

Kicker CXA300.4

9.7/10

  • Channels: 4
  • LxWxH: 15 x 9.5 x 4 inch
  • 600W @ 15.6V
  • Class AB
  • 75W x 4 @ 14.4V

MTX Audio THUNDER75.4

9.5/10

  • LxWxH: 14.43 x 7.5 x 4 inch
  • Surface Mount
  • Channels: 4
  • Class A/B Topology
  • Small Foot Print Design

Rockford Fosgate P600X4

9.1/10

  • 4 Channel
  • 600 Watt
  • LxWxH: 12 x 19.3 x 5.8 inch
  • Car Mount
  • Hi and Low level audio signals

WHAT IS A CAR AMPLIFIER AND WHAT DOES IT DO FOR SOUND QUALITY?

Car amplifiers are your best friend when it comes to getting the best sound quality out of any car audio system. A car amplifier functions by taking the signal that you get from your stereo and then increasing this power so that can be sent to speakers. This ensures that you will get loud, high-quality sound without losing any of the bass or treble.

The best car amplifiers will have an array of features that is sure to impress you. For example, they are efficient so that more power is sent to your speakers and less is lost as heat or energy. Most importantly though, the best car amplifiers for sound quality will have a flat frequency response so that all sounds come through crisp and clear.

WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF USING A GOOD QUALITY CAR AMPLIFIER FOR SOUND QUALITY?

  • By getting a good quality car amplifier, there are several benefits that you will enjoy.
  • For one, you will be able to get well-balanced and crisp sound that has great treble and bass as well as volume.
  • One of the biggest benefits is that you will be able to make your entire system louder without any distortion or noise in the background. This ensures that all sounds will come through loud and clear.
  • Another benefit is that you can make even low power speakers sound a lot better.
  • Finally, a good quality car amplifier is very efficient and will save you money on your energy bills over longer periods of time.

BEST CAR AMPLIFIERS FOR SOUND QUALITY AT A GLANCE:

1. Best amplifier for car subwoofer-Alpine BBX-T600 600W Max 2 Channel Class-A/B Amplifier

2. Most Powerful Car Amplifier-Pyle 2 Channel Car Stereo Amplifier – 4000W Dual Channel

3. Best 4 Channel Amp for Mids and Highs-Kicker CXA300.4 Four-Channel Full-Range Amplifier

4. Best Monoblock Class D amplifier Skar Audio RP-1500.1D Monoblock Class D MOSFET Amplifier

5. Best 4-Channel Amp for Sound Quality-Kenwood KAC-M3004 Compact 4 Channel Digital Amplifier

6. Most Efficient Car Amplifier-MTX Audio THUNDER75.4 Thunder Series Car Amplifier

7. Best Car Amplifier for Rear and Front Speakers Sound Quality-Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel

8. Best Amplifier for Car Subwoofer-Kenwood KAC-9106D 2000W Monoblock Class D Car Audio Power Amplifier

9. Best Car Amplifier for Bass - Rockford Fosgate P600X4 Punch 600 Watt 4 Channel Amplifier

10. Best Competition Car Amplifier for Sound Quality-Alpine X-A70F X-Series 4/3/2 Channel Power Amplifier

«Our Product Review Process»

10 BEST CAR AMPLIFIERS FOR SOUND QUALITY 2023- REVIEWS

1. BEST AMPLIFIER FOR CAR SUBWOOFER

Alpine’s BBX-T600 600W Max 2-ohm stable series amplifiers are perfect for powering subwoofers and midbass speakers. They feature a class-a/B output stage that produces great sound quality with minimal distortion. These amps also have a pulse width modulated MOSFET power supply, LED power (green), protect (red) indicators, soft start turn-on.

It also has two or mono channel operation, one pair of preamp outputs to connect multiple amplifiers, three way protection circuitry (thermal overload and speaker short protection), and a variable 12dB bass boost. They have full size, screw down speaker terminals and RCA outputs for doubling as a signal source for another amplifier. The BBX-T600 weighs in at 10lbs.

Alpine’s APX series amps are compact class-d amplifiers that can produce up to 500 watts of power, depending on your car’s electrical system. They have a unique cooling fan that runs at a reduced speed until the amp are completely warmed up, which reduces noise and vibration.

These amps have an attractive blue LED display that clearly shows all of the amp’s conditions, as well as a selectable high-pass filter with a slope of either 12dB/octave or 24dB/octave, depending on the model. They have a variable low-pass filter with a slope of either 12dB/octave or 24dB/octave, depending on the model.

Pros

  • Easy to install
  • Unique class-d amp with cooling fan
  • Perfect size to fit under a seat or out of the way
  • Mirrors vibrator bass like crazy

Cons

  • Bigger size than PDX

Sample Customer Review:

“Can’t go wrong with alpine, using it for highs and it sounds great.”

2. MOST POWERFUL CAR AMPLIFIER

This Pyle PLA2678 amplifier is ideal for powering your car audio speakers and subwoofers. It’s equipped with a built-in crossover network to send the right frequencies to the correct speaker, bass boost controls and dual channels that allow you to independently control the output of two sets of speakers (or one set of speakers plus a subwoofer) from one amplifier.

This unit is both versatile and powerful, powering two full-range speakers at 4 ohms per channel or bridging four channels to power one 4-ohm subwoofer. The amp boasts 4000 watts peak output (1600 watts RMS) and includes a bass boost for added sound performance. It even comes with preamp outputs so you can expand your system later with an additional amp.

For safety, this amplifier features thermal overload protection, short circuit protection and low impedance speaker protection. It has power supply voltage of 12 volts DC and is capable of operating at temperatures between 14°F and 122°F (-10°C to +50°C). A remote subwoofer level control is included for convenience.

Pros

  • Change from 4 channel to 2 channel by a simple switch
  • Built-in thermal overload protection
  • Bass boost only on the front channels
  • The design fits almost anywhere

Cons

  • No gain/level controls only on the remote

Sample Customer Review:

“I am by no means a professional car audio installer. This Pushes my american bass 12” 4000watt sindle sub like its nobodies business. Easy to dial in and connect. I’m pounding."

3. BEST 4 CHANNEL AMP FOR MIDS AND HIGHS

Kicker’s CXA300.4 is a 4-channel amplifier that delivers 75 watts RMS x 4 at 14.4 volts, 150 watts RMS x 2 at 14.4 volts, and 600 watts RMS x 1 at 15.6 volts to power your speakers! The CXA300.4 also features Kicker’s Extreme Clamping Technology (ECT) for speaker connections.

The amplifier has an aluminum alloy heat sink with integrated fins for maximum heat dissipation, and a built-in crossover network that allows you to set high-pass and low-pass filters (40Hz to 400Hz) on the front and rear pair of channels.

This model is shielded for protection against AC line noise and has a black powder-coat finish that looks sharp under your hood! Lastly, the CXA300.4 comes with two sets of preamp input harnesses one 4-channel harness and one 2-channel harness that will work with just about any aftermarket or factory radio.

Pros

  • Great amp. Quality sound
  • Great thumping bass
  • This is a very good amp for highs and mid-range
  • Low price and energy effective

Cons

  • Bad quality of power connectors and screws

Sample Customer Review:

“I replace the stock speakers in my van with heavy duty 450 white speakers. Found out the head unit couldn’t handle the wattage so I bought this kicker amp. I have great thumping bass a nice quality sound coming out of those speakers from my Kenwood receiver”

4. BEST MONOBLOCK CLASS D AMPLIFIER

The RP-1500.1D is a monoblock Class D amplifier designed to power subwoofers in a car audio system. This amp can be used with any type of subwoofer, but it is optimized for the most common types found in cars: 12" and 10" models with dual voice coils (DVC).

The amp features 4-Way Protection Circuitry, which protects the amp from overheating, over-voltage (over 14.4 volts), under voltage (under 10 volts), and short circuits.

It also features an external Fuse Holder on the end of the power cable. The amp’s frequency response is 20 Hz to 2 kHz, which means it can reproduce sub-bass all the way down to 20 Hz but will play bass frequencies up to about 2 kHz.

The terminals are compatible with bare wire or spade connectors, and they can take input signals as high as 9 volts RMS, which is perfect for subwoofers.

The power rating of this amp is 1500 watts RMS, with a peak of 2250 watts. That may not sound like much compared to some high-powered car amps on the market, but it will work fine if you want to power two or more 12" subs in your car.

It’s important to note that if you have one subwoofer, this amp is not always the best choice. It’s better at powering multiple subs than it is at driving one powerful sub.

Pros

  • It does not become hot
  • Best easiest wiring setup
  • This is a good car amplifier for your budget
  • Clean deep bass

Cons

  • Not suitable in Texas heat, but with proper ventilation it works great

Sample Customer Review:

“I just got the Skar SKv2-1,500.1D. I have had the RP 2000.1D for about 7-8 months and I just got this one this and it weighs almost three times as much as my RP2000.1D and the quality looks and feels way better, don’t get me wrong I love my RP2000 but I think I’m going to buy another one of these so I can strap them together in my one car and put the RP2000 in the other. I will update after I’ve ran it for a couple months.

If you’re thinking between this (SKv2-1500.1D) and the RP2000 pay the extra money and get this, either way YOU WILL NOT be disappointed with SKAR AUDIO!!!! All of there amps are amazing they blow my Kicker ZX amp out the water and the RMS is always higher then what it says!!!!! Skar audio is very conservative with their ratings my RP2000 was supposed to be 2000 RMS and I’m pushing almost 2,268 RMS at 1 OHM starting voltage was 14v ending voltage was it 12.9V.

I’m done telling you how great this thing is you can watch the videos on YouTube and see people actually Dyno testing these amps yes Shar does do their own dyno but there’s plenty of people that dyno these amp that are not through Skar. I was skeptical of the videos before I got my RP amp but there’s no question after I got it! I have bought Skar 12” subs and a couple amps and even earbuds “headphones” all are better than I was hoping for with only one exception and that is the earbuds do not buy the earbuds!!!!!!!! That’s all I’ll say about that."

5. BEST 4-CHANNEL AMP FOR SOUND QUALITY

Kenwood’s KAC-M3004 is a 4-channel amplifier that delivers 50 watts x 4 channels of crystal clear sound. The KAC-M3004 features power control connections. It also has line-level inputs to support your subwoofer or additional speakers.

This amp comes with a remote bass control knob that allows you to adjust the volume of your subwoofer from the front seat. You can connect up to two pairs of speakers using the RCA outputs and one pair using speaker leveling inputs.

Delivers 50 watts x 4 channels to speakers (14.4 V, 1% THD @ 4 ohms) Signal Sense Turn On – senses an audio input signal and turns the amplifier on for improved sound quality Dual noise sensing turn-on – if RCA level signals are not detected.

The amp will turn on by sensing an input signal Speaker Level Inputs – allows you to connect speakers without having to run RCA cables Auto protection circuitry – Monitors the amplifier’s output and turns off the amp when it detects thermal overload, DC offset, or subsonic frequencies

Superb Sound Quality:

The Kenwood KAC-M3004 has many features that enhance sound quality, including a 24 dB/octave crossover, an Infrasonic Filter, and a Variable Low Pass Crossover. In addition, the amplifier is equipped with High Level inputs that connect directly to any factory head unit as well as RCA level inputs for compatibility with almost any aftermarket head unit.

Advanced Circuitry:

The Kenwood KAC-M3004 features a Bass Boost Control, adjustable from 0 to +18 dB, giving this amplifier the ability to deliver more bass output from your subwoofer. In addition, it has a Remote Subwoofer Control which can be used with optional remote level control that allows you to adjust the volume of your subwoofer from the front seat.

Ultra Compact Design:

The Kenwood KAC-M3004 is designed to fit in almost any vehicle and runs efficiently on less power than most amplifiers its size, drawing only 500mA of current at 12Vª (GSB14 only). Because it is so compact, the KAC-M3004 can be mounted almost anywhere – under a seat, in a trunk, or on a shelf. It’s also incredibly efficient with the power consumption of only 0.8 Watts on standby and less than 1 Watt when turned off.

Pros

  • The Amp has a compact size for easy installation
  • It does not produce much heat
  • It is easy to install
  • No problems with heating, water, or anything else you do to it
  • Great built-in crossover to tune your system
  • Small compact amp with a ton of power

Cons

  • It Just doesn’t have the boost but buyers say it is very adjustable for sound control just lacks some noticeable boost

Sample Customer Review:

“I don’t know why Amazon lists this as “Kenwood 22154656” instead of its actual model number of KAC-M3004, but if you’re curious, that’s what it is. I’m extremely happy with this amp. I also own a KAC-M1804, and I’m not sure whether these are concurrent models or the 3004 replaces the 1804 or what, but if space isn’t your sole concern I would highly recommend the slightly larger M3004 – it’s something like 1/2” in each direction bigger, and what you get for that is more power, bridging, filters, variable crossovers, a 2 ohm stability. It’s a lot of extra features for a small price and size increase.

It works perfectly in my 2002 Saab Viggen in place of the factory amp, and since it has built-in HPF/LPF, I’m able to drive the door woofers in LPF mode (as the factory did) and the rear full-range speakers at the same time, with the same tiny amp. Huge improvement in sound for something like a 30 minute install.

I guess bear in mind I’m listening to MP3s in a convertible, so I won’t comment on its audiophile qualities, but it seems very good, especially for a Class D amp. I was having a rough time finding an amp that did exactly what I needed it to (that is, be small, reasonably powerful, and have a built-in LPF) so I was happy to find this. There’s a good chance I’ll buy another one of these soon."

6. MOST EFFICIENT CAR AMPLIFIER

The MTX Audio THUNDER75.4 Thunder Series Car Amplifier is a 4-channel amplifier that delivers 75 watts RMS to each of its four channels, making it perfect for powering a full-range speaker system in your car or truck. The amp’s Class A/B topology provides the power and efficiency needed to drive high performance speakers without draining your battery.

In addition, the THUNDER75.4 has variable Low Pass and High Pass filters that allow you to fine tune your sound system for maximum output and clarity at any volume level. It also features speaker level inputs, so you can directly connect your head unit for an instant power boost.

The amplifier has a black aluminum chassis with blue accent lights to complete its mean-looking exterior. It puts out clean, rock-solid power so you can enjoy your drive with the top down and the music turned up—loud and clear. It is high performance vehicle audio power amplifier that will not only fit your budget but also your sound system.

I recommend to you that you install an epicenter because it will make the bass sound better to your liking!

Pros

  • The value of this product is good
  • Slim design
  • It’s excellent for driving vocals and highs
  • No overheating issue (Set the gain correctly)

Cons

  • Improper installation may cause distortion

Sample Customer Review:

“MTX continues to impress. Just what I’ve come to expect from MTX…this amp has the basics, they don’t put a bunch of unneeded extras. Just more to go wrong on competing amps but this thing gives all the punch it advertises (probably puts out a bit more than advertised rms). If you don’t require a bass knob this is a great amp. Small form factor with good sound and power delivery.”

7. BEST CAR AMPLIFIER FOR REAR AND FRONT SPEAKERS SOUND QUALITY

The Prime R500X1D is a powerful, high-current monoblock that drives your subwoofers with authority. With 500 watts of continuous power and an incredible 1,000 watts of dynamic peak power, the R500X1D delivers the kind of performance you’d expect from the legendary Rockford Fosgate name.

The Prime series amps are equipped with Punch EQ for a bass boost at 45Hz. You can also take control with the Punch Level Control (PLC) remote knob to fine tune your low end from inside the vehicle.

Get more “oomph” from your Prime R500X1D by adding a second amp and an extra subwoofer to create a virtual “dual Mono” setup. You can also easily add one of our high-quality signal processors or use the full range outputs for rear component speakers, creating a flexible 2-channel system for your high-performance audio and video components.

The amps comes with a heavy-duty die cast aluminum housing, a stainless steel mesh grille, and an informative multi-color LED indicator. A separate control panel lets you adjust the Punch EQ, thermal management fan, and Subsonic Filter settings for this bass monster.

And thanks to our exclusive Advanced Synchronous Rectification Power Supply design, the R500X1D 500-watt monoblock won’t drop into low-power mode when it’s pushed hard: this amp is always ready to deliver the maximum power your system demands.

It is not compatible with3 ohm speakers. It will only see one impedance on 3 channel mode, either two or four. We recommend choosing two ohms on modes two and four if you plan on connecting a 3 ohm speaker.

Pros

  • It has many options for how to control it
  • This product is easy to install. It will make your life easier
  • It sounds good
  • There is plenty of power

Cons

  • It is not three ohms compatible

Sample Customer Review:

“I’ve had a boss 1150 amp for a couple years hooked up to the 2 12” terminator MTX’s. It’s done it’s job honestly as far as playing music, but it sucked the power out of my car and would overheat easily if turned up. I spent well over in 800-1000$ trying to fix my issues.

Competition battery to fix dimming issues, the big three done with 0 gauge wire, high output alternator. Nothing ever fixed the power issue until I got this. A quality amp that runs cool pushing the power it advertises, even more actually.

The old one would burn my hand touching it too long, this one is cool as a cucumber. A quality amp, and quality wires (OXEGYN FREE COPPER, don’t fall for cca, it’s a waste of money) will solve your issues. Wish y’all better luck than I had, and thank you Rockford."

8. BEST AMPLIFIER FOR CAR SUBWOOFER

The Kenwood KAC-9106D 2000W Monoblock Class D Car Audio Power Amplifier is a top quality product that has been designed to give you the best possible performance. This amplifier features a Class D amp design, meaning it will provide you with excellent efficiency and superior sound quality.

It also includes a variable low-pass filter (50-200 Hz at 24 dB per octave) so you can customize your listening experience and get the most out of your music. This Amplifier can deliver 2000W peak power at 2 Ohms and 1400W RMS power at 4 Ohms.

Other features include a MOSFET PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) amplifier, speaker level input via two RCA inputs, turn on/off delay with remote signal sensing, thermal overload protection circuitry, and a bass boost for extra bass.

The Amplifier is very efficient and will give you great value for your money. It is well worth considering if you want to improve the performance of your car’s audio system. The amplifier is compatible with most car stereos as it can be wired using speaker level inputs as well as pre-out RCA jacks.

The Kenwood KAC-9106D 2000W Monoblock Class D Car Audio Power Amplifier is very well priced considering the quality of this product. If you are shopping around for a new amplifier, then you should definitely consider buying this model. You will not be disappointed!

Pros

  • This amp is a good worker. It does not overheat and it does not die
  • The sound is great and it is very easy to install

Cons

  • You have to buy a universal volume knob

Sample Customer Review:

“As my first ever sub system I have done my self, this amp meets all of my needs. Its definitely powerful and it sounds very good with my subs. I learned how to tweak it over the past couple of months to get that optimal sound. I’m pretty sure everyone has a moment they don’t want to have bass heavy audio and wants to control it separately and I found out that there was no control so I bought a universal volume knob. (Two 12s 800rms @ 2ohms)”

9. BEST CAR AMPLIFIER FOR BASS

The Rockford Fosgate P600X4 is a 4-channel amplifier that provides 150 watts RMS x 4 channels at 2 ohms, 300 watts RMS x 2 channels at 4 ohms and 600 watts max power.

The amp features C.L.E.A.N (Calibrated Level Eliminates Audible Noise) set up to quickly and easily optimize the sound quality of your music for the best listening experience possible from your car speakers or headphones. It also includes Punch EQ which lets you tune bass frequencies to match the rest of your music.

The amplifier is built with an Infrasonic (20 Hz) filter that reduces the level of bass frequencies below what you can hear, which means it’s not simply reducing bass; it’s actually selectively filtering. Combined with Variable Crossovers, the P600X4 also gives you control over which speakers reproduce those low bass frequencies, for better sound quality.

One of the features that I love about this amplifier is that if you ever upgrade or change your speakers, you can use the fact that it has speaker-level inputs to connect them directly to the amp for better performance than an adapter would allow. However, you will lose some other features like equalization, volume control, and crossover settings.

The Rockford Fosgate P600X4 has four inputs (one for each channel) so you can connect up to four speakers or you can hook it up directly to your factory radio using the built-in high-level input. It includes speaker cable terminals so that you don’t have to use the speaker wires for the connections.

It also has a 12 dB/octave high-pass filter on each channel that can be used to block frequencies lower than 93 Hz, which is good for speakers in smaller cars where you don’t need much bass.

Pros

  • The sound is very clear. It sounds like crystals are being broken
  • The system head unit is a Bluetooth device that connects to an iPhone
  • It is very easy to set up

Cons

  • The amplifier gets slightly warm to the touch

Sample Customer Review:

“Awesome sound quality! I bought this to replace an older Rockford Fosgate P400 which was amazing, but I thought was dead. Turns out it was just a blown line fuse. No sorries though, the P 600 is installed and incredible. It’s pushing twin 14 inch subs and 10 eclipse 6 inches. The old one I thought dead is happily thumping in my boat. My ear doctor recommended this!”

10. BEST COMPETITION CAR AMPLIFIER FOR SOUND QUALITY

The X-A70F amplifier is the perfect solution for those looking to get an amazing sound and worry free drive. This power density design features Class D Technology which provides superior efficiency over traditional class A/B amps.

While still having enough juice with high current drives so you can control it easily! It will fit perfectly in any car thanks to its small chassis size as well – making this product even more attractive than other amplifiers of similar output ratings

The Amplifier has been designed by experts who know what enthusiasts want: powerful outputs without compromising on quality or performance; easy operation because we’ve got all your needs covered from one convenient package (including Install Guide); incredible value at less than $400 per channel when purchased individually.

The X-A70F delivers a killer 70W x 4 of stable power while being able to drive some seriously low impedance loads. It features a variable low-pass filter, phase control, and separate Bass EQ with +18dB boost at 45Hz for those woofers that really need an extra kick.

Pros

  • All the power you could need in a package
  • The connectors can be removed from the amp to make the wire connections

Cons

  • Expensive but features are too much and Quality is awesome

Sample Customer Review:

“I really like the way in which the connectors can be removed from the amp to make the wire connections.
As for SQ I’m an old school audiophile from the 90s class AB amps are my go to choice. So I was curious to see just how good the sound quality was moving to a class D for mids and highs.

I installed it in my home to a pair of JBL 660 GTIs only using two channels at 4 Ohms. I was very impressed by the spatial resolution. But it sounds significantly different that a high quality class AB. But at half the price of my AB its well worth every penny.”

COMPREHENSIVE BUYING GUIDE TO CHOOSE CAR AMPLIFIER FOR SOUND QUALITY

Here is a complete guide about choosing the best car audio amplifier for sound quality should include information on reading specifications, how to choose the right amp, and considerations when making a purchase.

1. BUYING PURPOSE:

The first thing to consider when buying an amplifier is what you are planning to use it for. If you are only using your stereo in order to change the radio station or to play music on long road trips, it is probably better to get a smaller 24W model than having the huge 130W amplifier.

However, if you are using your speakers for listening to podcasts or ripping audiobooks onto CDs then it might be better to get one with more power in order to give the speakers the best sound quality possible.

2. RMS:

From here, it is important to understand the difference between RMS power and peak. The RMS power tells you how much wattage your speakers will get on a continuous basis while the peak shows how much power your car amplifier can provide at its absolute best. This might be different for various models so ensure that you have evaluated both before buying one.

3. SPEAKERS:

The type of speakers that you buy will also affect the sound quality. If your car comes with factory installed speakers then it is important to find out what kind of wattage they have and if they are RMS or peak. If these aren’t any different, you might need a more powerful amp in order to get the best possible sound quality.

If you want to buy new speakers, you need to find out the wattage that they have and whether or not this is RMS or peak. You should also check if they are 4-ohm or 2-ohm models because this will affect your amplifier choice as well (see below).

4. CONNECTING YOUR AMPLIFIER:

An important thing to consider is whether or not the amplifier has a low-pass filter. This might be called differently depending on what kind of amp you have but it refers to filtering out all sound below a certain frequency in order to get a better sound quality.

5. PHYSICAL SIZE:

The final thing that you need to consider is the size of the car amplifier because this will affect mounting if you don’t have a place to put it. You should also check the dimensions and make sure that it will fit properly in your car’s interior without obstructing any windows or air vents.

6. SPACE AVAILABILITY:

Another thing that you need to consider is the availability of space in your car to install a car amplifier. Some cars have more free space inside while others are already crowded with interior features and accessories. In any case, it’s important to check what’s available before buying a specific model because if you can’t put it in you won’t be able to use it.

7. POWER:

When choosing an amplifier, the first thing you need to understand is that all amplifiers don’t produce the same amount of power. Speakers require specific amounts of power in order to work efficiently and produce optimum sound quality.

If the amplifier provides more power than it can handle, then it will burn up. However, if the amplifier doesn’t provide enough power for your speakers then you won’t be able to get the maximum out of them.

Therefore, it is important that you have a basic idea about how much power your amp will require in order to work properly with your speakers or subwoofers. You can find this information on the back of your speakers.

8. AMPLIFIER CLASS RATINGS EXPLAINED:

Since power output is very important when it comes to amplifiers, you will need to understand some common amplifier terms. These are power ratings and classifications of different types of car audio systems:

Class A/B – Class A/B amplifiers have been around for a long time and these systems are very inefficient because they waste a lot of power as heat. The wattage number you see on an A/B amplifier is the maximum amount of power it can put out before it becomes defective or produces less sound quality.

Class D – When it comes to car amplifiers, Class D has become the most common type. Class D amplifiers are much more efficient than A/B amps, and they waste less power as heat.

Class G & H – These amplifier types also use switching technology (like class D) to increase efficiency, but the difference is that they can produce even more power while staying cooler than other amps thanks to their design.

So, if you have a low power requirement, you can go with a class A/B amplifier. If your speakers require more power and you want maximum efficiency then choose a Class D or G amplifier. These types of amplifiers are also more popular among car audio enthusiasts these days because they tend to produce higher quality sound compared to others.

9. NUMBER OF CHANNELS:

The number of channels an amplifier has referred to the number of speakers it can power. So, you need one channel for each speaker in your car, or two channels if you want to power both your subwoofer and other speakers at the same time.

Channels are usually referred to as “2-channel” (when it can power 2 speakers), “4-channel” (for 4 speakers), and so on.

10. WATTAGE:

The wattage of an amplifier is usually shown in watts per channel, but sometimes you will find it given in RMS values instead. A good way to understand the difference between these two numbers is by using a simple example.

If you have speakers that are rated at 80 watts of maximum power, you need to make sure your amplifier can handle this. The wattage number on an amplifier is the maximum amount of power it can produce before it stops working properly or starts to produce sound quality that isn’t good enough for music.

So, in order to get the maximum performance out of your speakers, you need to make sure your amplifier produces the same amount of wattage or slightly more, depending on how much power it can handle.

You might also want to know that not all amplifiers are created equal, which is why you should pay close attention to their specs sheet when shopping for an amp so you don’t end up with something that can’t handle the power of your speakers.

Also Article: 7 Signs of a bad car amplifier-Guide

11. SOFT STARTING:

When you turn on your car audio system, the first thing that happens is that the amplifier turns on too. However, if you do this abruptly then it can cause power surges which will damage the capacitor and other components in your amp over time.

Soft starting is a feature that most new amplifiers have and it helps reduce strain and protect your car audio system by turning on the amp gradually.

12. MOSFET POWER SUPPLY:

This is another feature that modern car amplifiers have. Mosfet power supplies are basically switching power supplies which means they’re more efficient than traditional ones (like toroids).

A switching power supply can convert the energy it receives much easier and faster, which makes them very popular among manufacturers of car audio equipment.

13. BRIDGEABLE AMPLIFIER:

Some amps, like the best car amplifiers we’ve listed here, can be bridged to increase their output power and channel count. So if you’re looking for a 4-channel amp that can double as a 2-channel one when needed, make sure it’s bridgeable.

14. RCA INPUTS AND OUTPUTS:

This is an important factor to pay attention to when buying an amplifier. You need to make sure it has the right number of input and output channels so you can connect all your speakers (and subwoofer) properly.

15. NUMBER OF PREAMP OUTPUTS:

Since many amplifiers now come with more than two channels, it’s best if you double check if you have enough preamp outputs to connect all your speakers. Don’t forget that each speaker has two wires (positive and negative), so add the number of positive ones to the number of negative ones and see how many outputs you have available.

If not, then it might be a good idea for you to invest in a line output converter. This is a device that will provide extra RCA jacks so you can connect more speakers to your amp.

16. BASS REMOTE:

This feature provides a convenient way to adjust the bass level remotely, instead of going through your car and fiddling with the knobs on the amp itself.

17. SUBSONIC FILTER:

If you want to keep the sound of your subwoofer clean enough to enjoy hours and hours of music, then you should look for an amplifier that comes with a subsonic filter.

It basically protects your subwoofer by making sure it doesn’t produce frequencies that are too low for its design.

This way you won’t damage the voice coils or any other components of your subwoofer and enjoy a cleaner sound.

18. TERMINAL COVER:

Some people think that this is just another useless feature and no one really needs it so they don’t look for amps with terminal covers. But the truth is, they provide an extra layer of protection against short circuits and electric shocks which can happen when installing or tinkering with your amp.

Some amps don’t come with terminal covers, but if you see one that does then make sure to get it instead of buying an amp without this feature. It really makes a difference.

19. FUSES:

All car amplifiers should have fuses to protect themselves against damage caused by too high power surges or short circuits. Make sure to look for amplifiers that have been fused properly, otherwise, they could break down only a few weeks after installing them.

20. TOTAL HARMONIC DISTORTION:

THD is the degree of distortion your amplifier produces. It basically determines how clean and accurate your sound will be. A lower THD means a cleaner sound, so if you want to enjoy high quality music then make sure the amp you’re buying has low THD.

21. POWER SUPPLY:

There are three types of voltage that power supplies can provide: 12V, 14.5V, and 18V. The first one is the most common for car audio amps, but some models deliver more power so you might want to check them out too.

22. PROTECTION LED INDICATOR:

Another feature worth looking for is the protection LED indicator which warns you if there’s a problem with your amp or speaker wires so that you can fix it before any serious damage occurs.

If something comes in contact with the amp’s circuit then this will trigger an alarm and warning lights on your amplifier panel. It might even cut off power to the whole system, so it’s definitely something you don’t want to miss out on.

23. EFFICIENCY RATING:

The more efficient your car amp is the less energy it wastes and the more power it delivers to your speakers, without overheating or draining too much power from your car’s battery. Look for amps that have an efficiency rating of at least 75%, but even more, is better.

24. CROSSOVER CONTROLS:

You should also make sure that your amp has separate crossover controls for high and low pass filters, so you can adjust them according to the speakers you have installed. It’s a great feature to save some time when setting up your system.

25. HIGH/LOW PASS FILTER:

All amps usually come with high and low pass filters to cut down frequencies above or below a certain threshold, so you can make your system sound the way you want it to.

If an amp doesn’t have this feature then you should get one of those bass blockers instead, which basically do the same thing when put into line with your speaker cables.

26. EXTRA FEATURES OF CAR AMPLIFIER:

If you have an amp that includes other features then make sure to check what they are and how useful they can be.

Some amps include bass boost or remote level control which is a great addition, at least if you don’t want to get out of your car every time you want to change the volume.

You should also look for amps that have detachable power or speaker cables. That way you can replace them if they get damaged or you simply want to upgrade your system with higher quality wires.

EXPERT INSTRUCTIONS FOR INSTALLING YOUR NEW AMP IN YOUR VEHICLE:

  1. Read the instructions, read them again, and be sure to follow them. You can not go wrong if you follow the instructions correctly. The manufacturer sets these up for a reason!

  2. Get an amp kit or wiring harness that fits your vehicle AND amp. Both are sold at Sonic Electronix, so no worries there. We have kits for 95% of the vehicles out there.

  3. Locate your battery by popping the hood and looking on the firewall or kick-panel. Redline always denotes positive. We are now ready to run power wire from battery to amp.

  4. Disconnect negative battery terminal (this is very important). You can take it off with a 10mm socket or box wrench. Be aware of some vehicles that have happened to have the terminal on the positive side, this is rare but it does happen.

  5. Secure amp power wire to battery cable. You can either solder the cable, or use Posi-Taps crimp connectors, the male spade goes under the battery terminal and the wire crimped to it gets wrapped around the metal connector on top.

An easy way to get this right is by taking a test light, connecting one lead to ground (either bolt/screw on the metal chassis, or another bolt that goes into your negative battery terminal), and touching the other lead with either end of the power wire, if you get a light on your test light it’s hooked upright. Solder the connection only if you have good soldering skills and a steady hand!!

  1. Take power wire from battery to the distribution block/power distribution block, this is where your add-a-circuit or fuse taps will be used.

You can also use them to add more speakers or components. If you do not want to make one yourself (which is very easy) we sell them in all sizes and configurations.

  1. Find a place in the engine bay to mount your power block. If you decide to put it under your hood, use some 3M double sided foam tape and stick it to the bottom of the amp kit/wire kit box so when you go to screw it down it doesn’t go anywhere.

  2. We can now run our ground wire from amp to the chassis. This is a short run so 18-16 gauge will work fine, if running from the engine bay use a rubber grommet to protect your wire from chafing on metal edges and sharp corners.

  3. Find an empty channel in your dash to mount your amplifier, the one by the parking brake release works great. This can be done with double sided tape (very strong), Velcro, or stuck to the metal underside of the dash. It is always good practice to secure it in some way, also remember that heat rises so find a spot that is not over any part of your engine.

  4. Run RCA cables from head unit to amp, do not use the FM modulator output for this!

  5. Remove all parts from amp kit /wire kit box and test fit them in your car, make sure you have enough slack to run everything and close doors, etc. If you used a power block mount it now.

  6. Strip and crimp RCA cables and install them in your amp kit /wire kit box. These will be installed after everything is in the car. If your head unit has a right angle RCA input you can easily bend it 90 degrees and route it behind the amp to the front, this will give you a cleaner install.

  7. Mount amplifier power wire marked remote turn on wire, either under dash or under hood. This wire needs to be connected with the head unit power (+12V switched) so when you turn your car on the amp powers up, do not always hook this up to constant 12V, this is very important that it is a switched source.

For a good clean install, it should go from the amp kit /wire kit box to the power block, for this example, we will connect it to the power distribution block in your car.

  1. Mount amplifier grounding wire, in your car at the amp kit /wire kit box. This is crucial that you ground it to a strong metal surface like your car’s chassis, do not under any circumstances ground it to the head unit! This will cause a huge voltage drop and could fry a lot of things.

  2. Run power wire from amplifier to the fuse block /distribution block, this is where you’ll tap into your already existing positive battery cable with a Posi-Tap or another method. If you have many amps which need ground and power be sure to separate them, if the ground and power wires are connected to another (neg or pos) it can cause a ground loop and noise in your system.

  3. Connect RCA cables from amp kit /wire kit box to amplifier input, they should be marked as such on the amp/ head unit, for this installation they will be connected to line output of Pioneer head unit. If you have a subwoofer connect it now, if your amp has low pass filter hook up the sub to that channel before running RCA cables from head unit to amplifier, so you have one less wire in your car!

  4. Secure everything with zip ties or Velcro, do not over tighten them as this may cause damage to the wires.

  5. Plug in AC power supply from head unit to amp kit /wire kit box and turn on the car, don’t forget to connect remote wire for amp or your amp will not turn on! You should see a blue LED light up on your amplifier indicating it is getting power. All going well you should now have a working system installed in your car.

  6. If you used Velcro and it starts coming loose simply add more to the bottom of the amp kit/wire kit box and re-attach, make sure this doesn’t prevent you from closing your trunk or door properly, or that it isn’t sticking out where someone could damage it!

  7. If you used double sided tape and it is loose simply peel the amp kit/wire kit box off the surface, clean the surface with alcohol and re-attach after applying more tape to the bottom of the amp kit/wire kit box.

21. Repeat steps 1-5

  1. If using an MP3 player in your car you can turn on the head unit to power it up, then use the USB/Auxiliary input of your car stereo to play music from it.

  2. Sit back and enjoy your new system!

DISCLAIMER:

Please note that by following this guide you do so at your own risk, I cannot be held responsible for any damage done to your vehicle or system.

This guide assumes that you have adequate knowledge of using power tools, and have experience with car audio wiring before. This is not a step by step DIY but can give you an idea of how to install your own system if you are on a budget. Always research the laws regarding car audio installations in your region.

WHAT ARE SOME COMMON MISTAKES PEOPLE MAKE WHEN BUYING A CAR AMPLIFIER?

There are so many people out in the world that buy amplifier for their cars, but only a handful know what to look for and how to install it properly. So today we’re going to talk about some common mistakes and give you guys some advice on things to avoid when looking into car amplifiers. ​

AMPLIFIER THAT IS TOO POWERFUL:

The first mistake I’m going to point out is sometimes people get an amplifier that is too powerful for the speakers. Now, it’s always better to get a more powerful amplifier than you need because you can use it in future upgrades of your system or add on extra speakers later on.

So if you plan on doing so it would be best to buy something that is a little bit powerful than you need so you have some extra wiggle room. There are plenty of car amplifiers out there that are 1,000 watts or more.

And while they may seem really cool, it’s better to get something smaller, around 200 – 300 watts because the speakers will be able to produce sound at a lower rate. ​

WRONG GAUGE OF WIRING:

Another mistake I see people make is that they get the wrong gauge of wiring. Now, this is something that causes your amplifier to not work or it can even damage your car.

You want to make sure you use proper wiring for each channel on your amplifier because if you don’t it will overheat and shut off. ​

AMPLIFIER WITHOUT DOING ANY RESEARCH:

One last mistake that people make is that they buy an amplifier without doing any research or shopping around. Now not every car amplifier is the same, so it’s important to go out and do your homework before you spend money on one.

WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF CAR AMPLIFIERS?

There are a variety of different amplifier types some used for more specific applications than others. Generally, there are 3 major types of amplifiers that can be found in the car audio world: Mono-Block Amplifiers, 2 channel Amplifiers, and multi-channel car amplifiers like 4 channel Amplifiers, 5 Channel amplifiers and so on.

FAQS:

1. What is the difference between RMS, peak, and continuous wattage?

RMS or root mean square refers to the average power that an amplifier is able to produce on a continual basis. This number represents the safe limit of what you can use it at, so if your speakers are rated for 50W RMS then they will work best with any amp that produces on average less than this amount.

Peak refers to how much power an amplifier can handle for short periods of time. This is the maximum power so if you blast your speakers for 10 seconds at full volume, your amp will blow before any damage happens to them.

Continuous wattage refers to the average amount of power that an amplifier can produce when used at its minimum setting. If you turn it up all the way then you risk running into issues with overheating, but if you only put it at the minimum then you are safe to use just about any wattage without fear of damage.

2. What does RMS stand for?

RMS stands for “root mean square” which is a measure that is used when dealing with physics and electrical currents in particular. It can be used when talking about the power of an amplifier, to represent how much power the speakers will be able to use on a continuous basis.

3. What is RMS?

RMS stands for “root mean square” which is a measure that is used when dealing with physics and electrical currents in particular. It can be used when talking about the power of an amplifier, to represent how much power the speakers will be able to use on a continuous basis.

4. What is the difference between RMS and peak?

RMS or root mean square refers to the average power that an amplifier is able to produce on a continual basis. This number represents the safe limit of what you can use it at, so if your speakers are rated for 50W RMS then they will work best with any amp that produces on average less than this amount.

Peak refers to how much power an amplifier can handle for short periods of time. This is the maximum power so if you blast your speakers for 10 seconds at full volume, your amp will blow before any damage happens to them.

Conclusion:

We hope you have found this blog post useful. If you are looking for the best car amplifier for sound quality to suit your needs, we recommend that you consider all of these factors before making a purchase decision. With so many great options out there it shouldn’t be too difficult to find one that will work well with your vehicle and provide you with excellent sound quality!

What do you think is the most important factor when choosing an amp? Have any questions about amplifiers or our recommendations in general? Let us know below! We always have only one request, please share this article with your friends that are finding the best product!